Planting Brussels sprouts - this is how it's done

Planting Brussels sprouts - this is how it's done

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Children don't like it at all, adults often all the more - we're talking about Brussels sprouts. We will therefore tell you here how you can plant Brussels sprouts yourself.

The plants can be planted outdoors from May

Frost adds spice

Brussels sprouts place few demands on their location, which is why it thrives in most vegetable gardens of our latitudes.

Another advantage for cultivation is that this vegetable is only harvested in autumn (from November) and thus enriches our meal plan with freshness very late.

" Tip:

A single frost gives the individual Brussels sprouts an even more intense flavor.


Between March and April you need to sow the Brussels sprouts seeds in small planters in a frost-free room. As soon as the little plants have grown well in them, you can then separate them.

From mid-May to early June, you can then transfer these plants outdoors. It is important that you keep a generous distance of approx. 50 to 60 centimeters between the individual plants. You should also note that Brussels sprouts must always be planted in a different location - plant for a maximum of 3 years at the same location!

" Tip:

The location selected for cultivation should be enriched with compost about 4 weeks before planting outdoors.


Casting / fertilizing:

Brussels sprouts require very little maintenance (regular watering in the summer months into autumn) and minimal fertilization. If you have supplied the site with compost beforehand, even a single fertilization is sufficient at the beginning of August - otherwise fertilize the cabbage twice a year.


If the leaves of the Brussels sprouts change color (recognizable nutrient deficit), you must give priority to fertilization. This problem usually occurs after long periods of rain.

Increase growth:

In summer you should then pile up the earth. This is how you can give the plantlets more stability. You should also take a closer look at the florets from September. If their growth is only weak, only the top buds have to be broken off - but not the side leaves - whereupon the growth of the florets increases rapidly.


The Brussels sprouts are troubled by natural enemies, such as the white cabbage (butterfly), which lays its eggs on the underside of the leaves. But you can easily remove them.

Cabbage white butterflies are easy to fight

But the cabbage fly can also be a problem for Brussels sprouts. This pest lays its eggs on the root neck of the Brussels sprouts in July.

" Tip:

You can use vegetable nets against both pests. Simply stretch these loosely over the plant.


Brussels sprouts are quite undemanding

You can harvest the Brussels sprouts from around the end of November. You should pick the individual florets from bottom to top, as this does not restrict the growth of the remaining florets.

" Tip:

You should always harvest Brussels sprouts as needed. You can cover the unused florets with brushwood or straw, which means they are well protected and the harvesting time is significantly extended.

However, if the temperatures drop below -8 degrees, you should harvest the Brussels sprouts completely and freeze them in portions (if necessary, blanch briefly beforehand). Because thawing again in nature makes the florets soft and putrid.


After harvesting, you should pull the cabbage stalk out of the ground and destroy it, not compost it. In this way you prevent cabbage pests in the new plant year.